Author Topic: 265 valve settings  (Read 1515 times)

Offline MRT

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265 valve settings
« on: October 28, 2011, 01:35:24 pm »
i'm looking for the cold valve lash settings for my 265 dodge motor that i'm rebuilding
thats going in my 67 J5

Offline marcdds

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Re: 265 valve settings
« Reply #1 on: October 29, 2011, 09:59:16 am »
check at vintage power wagon they can help u out

Offline the old trucker

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Re: 265 valve settings
« Reply #2 on: November 01, 2011, 07:14:52 am »

    MRT maybe this might help. I found it on the internet.    

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Guest Message by DevFuse 

 0 
     Valve Adjustment 251/265 Flat Head 6 Cyl
Started by Jay Goddard (converted), Dec 13 2004 at 08:47 pm


You cannot reply to this topicGo to first unread post3 replies to this topic .
#1 Jay Goddard (converted) 
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Posted December 13, 2004 at 08:47 pm

What is the real way to adjust the valves on a flat head 6 cylinder motor? The Chilton's manual says to do it with the motor warm and running. How about cold and a sequence? Anyone? Thanks. Jay

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#2 Operator6 (converted) 
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Posted December 13, 2004 at 11:01 pm

After doing the valves on my 230 Flathead I adjusted them cold in order to get it started, this may not be the recommended way but it worked....

1. Take a tape measure and starting at the mark on the front pulley measure the circumference of the pulley and divide the pulley in 3rds making a mark with white chalk at each third.

2. Bring the engine up on NR1 TDC which will have the valves on NR1 cylinder closed, set the clearance to specs on both valves, I added a little extra space to make up for it being cold

3. Now knowing the firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4 turn the engine to the next mark you made on the pulley, this should bring up NR5, set the valves, rotate the next mark to TDC and adjust NR3, rotate to next mark and adjust NR6, Next mark NR2, Next mark NR4. It would probably be a good idea to readjust them after the engine was warmed up but mine was running so good and I could hear the valves ticking a little, and the thought of messing around under the exhaust manifold wasn't too appealing that I just put the covers back on and I"ve not touched it since.....

Good Luck.....RB

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#3 Jay Goddard (converted) 
Guests
Posted December 14, 2004 at 09:38 pm

Operator6, on Dec 13 2004, 09:01 PM, said:

After doing the valves on my 230 Flathead I adjusted them cold in order to get it started, this may not be the recommended way but it worked....

1.  Take a tape measure and starting at the mark on the front pulley measure the circumference of the pulley and divide the pulley in 3rds making a mark with white chalk at each third.

2.  Bring the engine up on NR1 TDC which will have the valves on NR1 cylinder closed,  set the clearance to specs on both valves,  I added a little extra space to make up for it being cold

3.  Now knowing the firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4 turn the engine to the next mark you made on the pulley,  this should bring up NR5,  set the valves,  rotate the next mark to TDC and adjust NR3,  rotate to next mark and adjust NR6,  Next mark NR2,  Next mark NR4.  It would probably be a good idea to readjust them after the engine was warmed up but mine was running so good and I could hear the valves ticking a little,  and the thought of messing around under the exhaust manifold wasn't too appealing that I just put  the covers back on and I"ve not touched it since.....

Good Luck.....RB

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>



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#4 Jay Goddard (converted) 
Guests
Posted December 14, 2004 at 09:41 pm

Operator6, on Dec 13 2004, 09:01 PM, said:

After doing the valves on my 230 Flathead I adjusted them cold in order to get it started, this may not be the recommended way but it worked....

1.  Take a tape measure and starting at the mark on the front pulley measure the circumference of the pulley and divide the pulley in 3rds making a mark with white chalk at each third.

2.  Bring the engine up on NR1 TDC which will have the valves on NR1 cylinder closed,  set the clearance to specs on both valves,  I added a little extra space to make up for it being cold

3.  Now knowing the firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4 turn the engine to the next mark you made on the pulley,  this should bring up NR5,  set the valves,  rotate the next mark to TDC and adjust NR3,  rotate to next mark and adjust NR6,  Next mark NR2,  Next mark NR4.  It would probably be a good idea to readjust them after the engine was warmed up but mine was running so good and I could hear the valves ticking a little,  and the thought of messing around under the exhaust manifold wasn't too appealing that I just put  the covers back on and I"ve not touched it since.....

Good Luck.....RB

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>


Thanks for the information and help. I will try this method out tomarrow. Jay

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Offline Cranman

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Re: 265 valve settings
« Reply #3 on: November 01, 2011, 09:57:37 am »
I seem to recall they were 10 I and 12 Ex cold but that should be checked in the Chry Ind manual. Ted Playford and others have told me they set them 2 thou looser when using in commercial fishing bombardiers, where they often run hotter and harder than in autos and trucks. He said they specified this to rebuilders and had no more burnt valves.

Offline MRT

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Re: 265 valve settings
« Reply #4 on: November 01, 2011, 10:10:15 am »
when i set the valves i still had the head off to find TDS and i set them at .010 in .012 ex   

Offline Cranman

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Re: 265 valve settings
« Reply #5 on: November 01, 2011, 03:54:11 pm »
I think that will be good. The J5 is lighter and the engine should run cooler than a bombardier with a ton of fish in it. I always found the j5's adequately powered by the 251's so a tight 265 will be even better.