Northern Tracks Forum
General Forums => Wooden Bombardiers => Topic started by: Swamp Dawg on October 13, 2008, 08:14:46 pm
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Posting these picture on behalf of Gror. I'm sure he'll chime in and tell you about it.
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/mudflinger150/grors%20rebuild/DSCF0018.jpg
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/mudflinger150/grors%20rebuild/DSCF0020.jpg
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http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/mudflinger150/grors%20rebuild/DSCF0031-1.jpg
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/mudflinger150/grors%20rebuild/DSCF0034-1.jpg
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/mudflinger150/grors%20rebuild/DSCF0035-1.jpg
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http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/mudflinger150/grors%20rebuild/DSCF0071-1.jpg
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/mudflinger150/grors%20rebuild/DSCF0068-1.jpg
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Hey Gror, it looks like your really tearing her down. How's the wood. Much rotten. The engine compartment looks a lot cleaner than some I've seen.
Also looks like you have lots of room in your garage to move around & do your repairs comfortably.
I'm sure your going to do a great job with it, according to the way your taking everything apart. With a fresh coat of paint & a few parts, she'll look like a million bucks!!! Keep up the good work & keep us posted.
The Old Trucker 10/4 !!
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Added a couple more pictures to the bottom.
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Thanks for posting the pictures Swamp Dawg. Its time to get rid of the old 251 and three on the tree. Both are working ok but thought I would make it a little more reliable. The wiring has been giving me some greif so it will all get replaced and a windsheild wiper will also be added. Other than that the rest is good.The engine going in is a 300 ford totaly rebuilt from top to bottom. A c6 auto is going in for a tranny . Lots to do including fabing up moter & tranny mounts. Leapord skin interior has to go and the yellow paint. The only rotten wood was the roof because it was birch venier and left in the rain since 2002 when it was last done. Will correct that and give the old girl a new paint job. Will post pictures of the finished product when done, which will be in a couple of months, so much to do , so little time. I tried to take as many pictures of parts for you Old Trucker so if you have any questions about them feel free to ask.
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Good choice on the 300 C6 combo, very reliable. Not overly powerful but torquey and fuel efficient. We've been having great luck with ours. And it fits very nicely in the engine bay.
Good luck and keep us updated with pictures. Not too long till the snow flakes come.
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Hey boys is that all is up around your way is rusty old fords ?
What about a 292 chevy ? Thanks Gror for the pics. There great!!!
Keep taking a scattered pic once in awhile. Don't wait till the end.
My ol' ticker may not be able to take the pressure of waiting.
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Gror, how many wires are needed to go from the engine compartment to the dash area ? I'm curious because on tractor trailers there is a seven way wire that joins the lights from truck to trailer. It's (7) 14 gauge wires encased in heavy rubber & can be bought in any length. It's also available with 4 & 6 wires. Thought it may make everything a little neater & easier to work with ! Put a junction block on each end. No more cutting, joining or taping wires!!!
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Thanks for the info Old trucker, But I already have that covered. Found a 30ft piece of seven condutor 12Gauge teck with just the right wire in it. Like you say nice and neat and water proof to.
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In the ninth pic down I noticed what I call the bell housing has all the top half broken off. The clutch looks to be fairly new.
Almost looks like someone couldn't get the housing off to get at the clutch assembly. Please correct me if I am wrong, I'm not a mechanic.
Gror, are you thinking about keeping the stock rad or replacing it with something newer ? Last question for the day. When the new trans is in & buttoned up how would you use the shifter. What I mean is in a normal situation you'd pull back to put it in a forward gear. Will yours move the opposite way ?
Keep up the great work & please take pics.
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Gror,
Nice rebuild project, the pictures are great for reference and for all the other members to enjoy your efforts.
Regarding OT's comments about the bell housing, I was wondering if there was a story behind that as well.
Are you thinking of using birch to replace the rotten wood?
I may be confused about the Model B12 CS - I thought the S stood for "Special", but from the looks of pics #5 & #6 Bombardier must have offered a "Safari" package in 1950.
Looks like you are on the way to having a great unit. Keep the pics posted and Good Luck.
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I may be confused about the Model B12 CS - I thought the S stood for "Special",
but from the looks of pics #5 & #6 Bombardier must have offered a "Safari" package in 1950.
Ha, good call Houlio ;D
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I couldn't resist - I looked to see if there was fuzzy dice hanging from the wiper motor but maybe that wasn't an option.
Looks like your doing well at restoring her Gror - have fun.
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Hey Gror - what kind of condition is the fuel tank in? Do you have any plans for chaning it?
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About the bellhousing, I was told by the guy I got the machine from that it was busted out on purpose. He said it made it easier to change out the clutch. Dont know about the tank yet but it is in great shape. And yes the seat covers are for sale. Im still working on shifting design but will keep you posted O.T..
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Hey OT - Those seat covers would probably work for the chair at your computer.
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Looks like there from my era. PEACE BABY !!! Hey BRO...where'd these pink elephants come from !!! Like groovy man !!!
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Gror is that the original steering wheel for that bomber ? Looks like the center part is gone. I found a few sites on the net awhile back that shows how to repair wheels with cracks in them. It's some kind of 2 part epoxy. Results look good too.
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Yes I think it is. It has been welded up and a lot of the parts are missing so I will probably change it out at some time when all the major work is done.
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Gror I'm wondering if that old bell housing is aluminum. If so it's likely that the steel bolts seized onto it over time. Had that problem with my first truck. Had bearings rolled in @ 500,000km. Bolts stuck between lower housing & top of base pan.
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Gro,
Could you measure the size of the opening in the wood frame for the smaller back window on your bomber? Also the size of the glass that will go in. Hopefully you still have them out.
I plan on replacing all the glass on my 47' back to the round style windows. Someone had installed the newer larger type windows. The wrong type of plywood was used so I figure I may as well go all the way and change everthing.
Thanks Gro!
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Grfishmaker the small window glass is 6". The other glass is 10" & 12". The opening can be determined when you get the rubber to replace the glass with. I hope you are going to do the same as Gror is doing, by taking pics of everything. Your parcel should be in the mail by weekend.
TOT
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Yeah, I know the approx. size, but it makes a huge difference on being close or pretty close. I have seen alot of sloppy window replacement work done. There is a pretty fine line between too tight and too loose. Too loose a fit and any light pressure from branches will pop out your windows. When done right, it's a pretty tight fit. Sometimes it seems like you are trying to put in a piece of glass that is too big and all of a sudden it slips into place. When you get the window in, the glass is held very tight and you know you have done it right. Sometimes it seems like the hole opening is too small.
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grfishmaker,
I agree with you on the size of the window having to be precise. One thing to remember is the gasket material. I don't know if the original gasket material is still available. We went with one that was very similar, but slightly thicker and we had to really work to get the small windows back in.
It's up to you, but we tried to make sure the splice in the gasket material was at "6 o'clock" or straight down to try and reduce moisture damage - and make them look consistant. Also you may want to cut the gasket material at an angle to compensate for the arc in the window - helps reduce the gap.
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Thanks Houlio,
I took out all my windows on my 53' wide a couple years ago when I repainted her. That was the first time I ever re-installed any glass and I could have swore that the glass had expanded when I went to put them back in. I used the rubber moulding than Shaver sells. Looks good, nice and pliable. I had never replaced a bombardier window before and was lucky to have a co-worker that is also a commercial fisherman on Lake Winnipeg to show me how. I used a piece of small sideline and alot of dish soap to coax them back in. Talk about a slippery thing to try and hold onto. I could have kissed each piece as they went in ok. By the time you are on your last window, you have mastered the job and now you are out of glass. I agree with you on the location of the join, right on the bottom. I believe that was the first time she probably had all her windows out to paint, so if someone wants to do it again in another 57 years, I probably won't be around to help (I'll be over 113 years old by then and probably I will have something better to do).
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Houlio you had to enlarge the diameter on your windows. But if you were to use the old rubber over again, they should of fit right in. If Gror's windows, rubber, & openings are original, & he replaced them with new rubber of differant thickness between glass & frame, wouldn't it affect the end result ???
Example :: glass diameter is 6", opening diameter is 6 1/4". Your new rubber can to be no thicker than 1/8th of an inch. If the rubber is 1/4 " thick, it's too tight!!! By thickness I mean the distance between the glass & the wood.
Another thing I had to do with the glass on my windshield was to put a small bead of butyl rubber in between the rubber & frame & glass to reseal it tight.
That's what I meant by determining the size. Try it with a piece of scrap plywood first!!!
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The orginal gasket material had dried up and we didn't find one with the exact measurements. I found one extremely close through Goodall Canada.
The small back windows would not fit back, so we built a depth jig with the same arc as the original window and clamped it to a die grinder. This allowed us to take off the right amount of material to put the window in.
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I measured my small window opening for you grfishmaker . Hole is 6 3/8 inches and the glass is 6 inches. Just to let you know my plywood is not original so dont know how accurate that is. Windows seem to fit ok but there is a 1/4 inch gap in my rubber. Hope this helps you.
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Hey Swampdawg do you have a part number for that remote oil filter holder and engine block plate to go on oil filter mount. If you do it would help me out a bunch. Appreciate your pics of your 52 rebuild helping me out in all ways. Thanks gror.
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The engine block plate is a custom unit we made. I can post pictures of it if you would like. As for the part number, I'll see if I can find that out for you.
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Picures would help a lot ,I have a machinest here that can build anything from a picture.
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I measured my small window opening for you grfishmaker . Hole is 6 3/8 inches and the glass is 6 inches. Just to let you know my plywood is not original so dont know how accurate that is. Windows seem to fit ok but there is a 1/4 inch gap in my rubber. Hope this helps you.
Thanks Gror, I appreciate the info on the measurement.
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Pictures are up under the cyl engine section.
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We got Swamp Dawg's "52" rebuild. We had Houlio's "49" restore. We even have Gror's "50" rebuild. Who's the next one on the list ?? Could it be Grfishmaker's "48" rebuild???. We'll have to wait & see.
By the way Grfishmaker, I'm having a little trouble getting your parcel ready. Hopfuly be done this week.
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Gror, the next time you take pictures of your rebuild, could you get a few closeups of how the plywood & framing is put together. I'm interested in seeing how the metal brackets that hold the body together are shaped also. It will be greatly appreciated.
Same goes for any one that has a woodie. All pics are welcome. If you can't put them on here, you all know my email address.
THANKS, The Old Trucker
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Gror old buddy, how did you get on with the linkage for the gas peddle ? You find much difference with engines ? Ford verus Chrysler ! My friend Mike has a 251. Your thoughts are welcome.
Got any pics yet ?? Just curious.
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Just had visit with Jim Woods and seen what he did on his newest project he is finishing. I havent had a chance to get it done yet , but have all the parts fabricated to fix it , possibly tommorrow night. Have other issues with the fan and also found out from Jim I need a 6 blade fan and should have that tommorrow. Yes I do have some pictures but want to take some more, When I do Ill get them to Swampdawg to post for me . Also waiting for some ski rods from Shavers, hope to see them this week. Ill keep you hanging for a few more days OT.
Ps; You will have to wait for the seat covers, not doing them till this summer!!
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You & Houlio, I don't know who's the worst ! I guess the reason for a six blade fan is that it should push more air to the motor.
What does Jim Woods have on the go ?? If you get a chance, tell us about it. Or better still get a few pics.
I think your holding off on the seat covers because Houlio wants them. Just as well let him have them. I hate seeing a grown man sulk. ha ha ha !!!
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Hey GROR !!!!! Where are those pictures you said you were going to show us ?? It's been a month now. By the way, how is Jim Woods doing with his project ??
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More pictures from Gror.
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/mudflinger150/grors%20rebuild/DSCF0009.jpg
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http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/mudflinger150/grors%20rebuild/DSCF0018-1.jpg
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http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/mudflinger150/grors%20rebuild/DSCF00112.jpg
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/mudflinger150/grors%20rebuild/DSCF00122.jpg
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/mudflinger150/grors%20rebuild/DSCF00132.jpg
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Gror in the third pic down in reply # 38 I noticed that you have a couple of old style looking switches on the left. Can you tell me where you got them ?? I find they blend in with the gauges & the dash. It looks great.
PS; I forgot, I was wondering about where the gauges came from also.
OT.
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I found them at the local Home Hardware ,but I have also seen them at Canadian Tire and Nappa they are only around 8 bucks . Im using them for Lights and the front heater.You will have to run them through a breaker or relay or they will weld closed on the headlights.
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Sorry Gror I added to my original post while you were posting yours.
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Gauges were bought online from JEGGS ,they were very pricey!!
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Newbie
Posts: 31
Re: Gror's rebuild
« Reply #13 on: October 26, 2008, 05:41:32 PM » Quote
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About the bellhousing, I was told by the guy I got the machine from that it was busted out on purpose. He said it made it easier to change out the clutch. Dont know about the tank yet but it is in great shape. And yes the seat covers are for sale. Im still working on shifting design but will keep you posted O.T. Report to moderator Logged
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Gror can you fill me in a little more on how you ran the linkage for the gas & trans. Another thing Gror, in reply # 38, last pic, it looks like you reframed your motor door to accommodate the new handles. Did you put a new skin over the frame also ?? Myself & Mike (57 Rebuild) would like to re skin our motor doors with the louvers punched in them. I noticed yours look like new. Would you or other members know where this can be done ??
OT. ??? ???
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The moter doors are new and they were made by Shavers, they fit right in with no modifcations.
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http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/mudflinger150/grors%20rebuild/DSCF00112.jpg
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/mudflinger150/grors%20rebuild/DSCF00122.jpg
Gror in these pics I noticed the blue block just under the carb. Is that where the EGR valve was ? I am thinking about cutting mine off & plugging the hole to look similar to yours as mine wasn't working. Is that what you did ??
OT.
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Yes I took it out and machined a dummy the same size. Sorry for not getting back ,been gone moose hunting.