Messages

46

General Discussion / Re: Posting Videos

« on: January 17, 2011, 11:22:56 am »

It's OK OT, I'm too old to start fooling with sliders. When they came out in skidoos some would argue that they were better in slush, but I think they just seemed to be better because at the same time skidoos were going to more powerful engines 2 and 3 cyl and the tracks were modified with 2 inch paddles. Climbing the shoreline , the windfalls , the stumps and sidehills around here, I like the boggies flexibility and I never end up with over half the track up in the air, like the guy in the video. My narrow guage steel will push snow with the headlights and I doubt sliders would be of any benefit except of course to free up some wheels and tires.

47

General Discussion / Re: Posting Videos

« on: January 16, 2011, 08:56:32 pm »

www.youtube.com/user/danyadidas350 has some coverage of sliders that are not doing so good.

48

Drivetrain / Re: Tires

« on: January 05, 2011, 10:53:48 pm »

GoodYear 6ply bombardier tires available at Jason's Tire in Creighton , Saskatchewan at $110 a tire plus $10 for the tube plus taxes etc. 1-306-688-3500. He has quite a few in stock and can get more. He's only a couple blocks from the bus depot to ship east or west.

49

General Discussion / Re: Swamp Dog and Cletus are down

« on: January 05, 2011, 08:08:56 am »

Bad news. Just a long shot and I'm no 300 Ford man but I read that Ford dealt with the piston heat by directing an oil stream at the piston base from the top rod bearing. Have come across a couple instances where oil galleries weren't redrilled on rebuild so this may be something to look at on disassembly. Had a cooked end main ruined on a cat grader once at 50 hrs and I read about a Cessna 185 that flew 20 hours on the assembly grease before it seized the main. Hope it is not too serious you guys.

50

For Sale - Vehicles / Re: Bombardier in Mb.

« on: December 16, 2010, 01:57:17 pm »

I asked Ted Playford about rad doors and he says the wide ones came out on the V8 in 1958, but all the ones with the 6 cyl 251's had the narrow doors into the 60's when they went standard as V8. So I suppose this was a 6 cyl 1959. Hey Kyle...Eat lots of boiled whitefish and get yourself strong for the new year. The portages are pretty rough. Hope you are doing better.

51

V6 or Straight 6 Engines / Re: j5 carb

« on: December 04, 2010, 07:01:08 pm »

I was having trouble finding a rebuild kit too but was able to pick up a complete rebuild for about $100 or so exchange. Averyman reported in Dec 2006 that he was able to get a NAPA kit and the part # is NAPA #2-5066A. Maybe with that info you can go back to NAPA for another look.

52

Transmissions / Re: Kick down on auto transmission.

« on: November 04, 2010, 10:04:23 pm »

I don't have a 313 or 318/727 but was talking to Ted Playford today and he has 3. He has never seen one from the factory with the kickdown linkage. Bombardiers came out that way and they seem to be fine. I notice one of his shifts at a bit higher rpm but still not terrible. I suppose bombardier was mating up the engines they had in stock (318's by then) to the heavy 727's with the brake on them. and likely would have had to go to a lot of problems to set up the linkage, so they just locked them ahead. As someone pointed out here, this application is different from a car or truck on the highway so likely wasn't needed anyway. Appears old man bombardier was right again. On the other hand if I was installing a motor/trans out of a car or truck, I'd leave it on. Ted says not to leave them loose,especially on the fords as they will lug and not gear down.  If locked down they seem to work also.

53

General Discussion / Re: Front wheels

« on: August 13, 2010, 07:29:57 am »

Well if you have the front suspension on and you don't have extra wheeels you could move a centre wheel from the back up front to get it around the shop ok. On the older woodies there is a clamp on wheel that is easily made for this purpose.

54

General Electrical / Re: Fuse panel

« on: August 07, 2010, 09:40:47 am »

That looks ideal. You can mount it up front and feed it with a #12 or #10 wire fused at the back end. I run my headlightf off the board and use a 20 amp little fuse plug in circuit breaker instead of a fuse on the board for that circuit.

55

General Electrical / Re: Voltage Regulator!

« on: August 04, 2010, 07:58:53 pm »

If the alternator is OK you should be able to get a replacement regulator from an auto part store. If you go to a GM Delco there's  a few things to consider . Dual pulleys are ideal but I doubt you can use your chrco pulleys. Delco single wire alternators are popular on bush equipment and race cars for the simpicity. I'm running one in my 265 Chry Ind. that has a self energizing regulator installed. I ran a #10 wire over to my solenoid and put a Voltage Guage on my dash to replace the AMP guage. As long as I have 13.8 volts I know I am OK. No need for the other wiring and I guess that is a bonus when you are out on the tundra..On the GM's they ran the #1 field wire to the idiot light on the dash and then on to the cold side of the ignition switch. On my 4x4 suzuki truck I put in a bulb with 10 ohms res and it seems to be working ok, like it would on a GM.  I turn the key on it lights up and as the motor starts, the regulator cuts in and drops off the power to the light on the dash.The #2 sensing wire then goes to the battery or in my case I put a short jumper to the main terminal.

56

Drivetrain / Re: bombardier rim

« on: August 02, 2010, 10:41:28 am »

They should be ok OT. If the inner cone on the j5 is 15112 and the cup 15250 and the outer is 09074 and cup 09196, you are in business. Use the stem protected ones on the back with new 6 ply tires if you can as they are most important to get home every time, Even if the inner is ,15118 which I doubt, you can still change them to 15112 to fit yours.

57

Drivetrain / Re: Tires

« on: July 21, 2010, 09:29:58 am »

GoodYear 450-16 C 6 ply. I paid $112. plus $4.50 tire tax and $10 for tubes at Flin Flon tire shop last November. Should be a little cheaper at Good Year in bigger centres.

58

Wooden Bombardiers / Re: Reskinning Doors

« on: May 30, 2010, 06:38:17 pm »

You have to cut the piece a bit larger than the frame and just form and pound the metal over. At the corners you have to cut even closer in a kind of semicircle. If you can get a look at a factory door you'll see how much to leave. You need a big sturdy flat table to work on and when Cam did mine I held one side up a bit so the area he was forming was flat on the table. He mostly used a big ball pean hammer held close to the head to do the pounding. Since the doors aren't flat you  have to keep the metal flat on the table. It really goes on well. You have to adjust the door frame angle iron to fit perfectly before you start. I haven't had any experience replacing the inner metal of the doors. When we were done reskinning Cam lined the inner door with the birch plywood right through, then did the framing with 7/8 Maple for the part below the window. The frame below the window was champhered out so the plywood part was even with the metal and quite pleasing to the eye. If you have to do your rad door, do it first to get the hang of it.

59

General Discussion / Re: Adding power steering

« on: May 22, 2010, 09:53:09 pm »

I think the power steering pump would be adequate OT, but I have no details on the cylinder. Ted rigged Cam's big Gem and as far as I know it has always worked perfect. Stuck-in-slush made his setup the same so maybe if he comes on he can scan some pics. I know there was good pics at the time of costuction. I remember the guys putting in some pretty heavy rigging at the time to handle all the torque required to turn those skiis.

60

Metal Bombardiers / Re: 51 R18 Rebuild

« on: May 17, 2010, 11:44:09 am »

Since there appears to be so few metals in 1951 and yours was made right at the end of the year, it may be the first metal. I suppose the bombardier museum has all the details.