Author Topic: WASCANA'S 48 'WOODY' REBUILD  (Read 4477 times)

Offline oldsledz

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Re: WASCANA'S 48 'WOODY' REBUILD
« Reply #15 on: January 26, 2011, 08:22:33 am »
Wascana.

  I used the  Sikkens log and siding semi stain,  not the Cetol product.  I have had no issues at all so far.  First,  I did a single coat to the interior sides of my plywood,  then did 3 top coats of Benjamin Moore Marine varninsh. Once the plywood was installed,  I sanded the roof and side panels to fit so the edges came out correct.  Then a coat of Sikkens and 3 coats of marine varnish. Finally I had the pin stripes put on (painted-not decal).  The painter that did the job suggested after a year or 2 we should pull the metal doors off and apply another coat or 2 of varnish.  I plan to do that this summer.  The reason is that it really is treated sort of like a boat,  so this is just a "maintainence" coat. 

Bear in mind that you can change the tone by heavy you apply it.  I brushed it on and then used a rag to get it consistant.  Play with it on a sample board first.  AND I am sure that there are better ways to do this, but I am very happly with mine.

Good luck.

Offline Wascana

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Re: WASCANA'S 48 'WOODY' REBUILD
« Reply #16 on: January 26, 2011, 08:51:55 pm »
Rattleman/Oldsledz:  Thank-you very much for the information.  I was also talking to Houlio yesterday and he used the following finish:

Wood Shield - Semi Transparent Oil Stain - "Harvest" from brochure #8927-986

   From Chemcraft Finishes (Wpg)
   #620-106 D-Dur Clear Satin mixed with #999-062 D-Dur Catalyst (sprayed three coats)

So maybe I am worrying too much about what to do and what actual brand to use.  It looks like the main thing is to take the time and adjust the base varnish to taste and put enough coats on to ensure a good seal, especially around the edges.

One interesting item Houlio noted was that on his unit the interior maple frame work and roof panel were not base varnished (or were varnished with a much ligher colour) than the interior side walls.   You can see this if you scroll through his pictures.  I do not ever recall this much difference on my unit - wondering if anyone else has any comments on this?

Also, I am planning on using stainless steel wood screw fasteners.   Houlio thought he used brass, but was going to double check.  Any comments on fasteners?  I hope to see Houlio in a week or so to get a closer look at his machine.

Wascana



Offline oldsledz

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Re: WASCANA'S 48 'WOODY' REBUILD
« Reply #17 on: January 27, 2011, 06:03:31 am »
Use stainless screws.  When you stain the outside,  the stain will tone the finish down a bit and make the screws look old.  Good luck!

Oldsledz

Offline rattleman

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Re: WASCANA'S 48 'WOODY' REBUILD
« Reply #18 on: January 28, 2011, 08:55:37 am »
My first machine was make with mapple plywood so I used #6x34' brass screws
 the sceews has to big .But it's hard to use smaller than that because they brake easy when they get in hard wood eaven predrill
On my second one  b-12 in birtch plywood I used #4 or 5 stailess steel screws (I will check it on my way home next week, am out of the city)
It's a stronger screw and and there are easy to stain.
   
 

Offline Averyman

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Re: WASCANA'S 48 'WOODY' REBUILD
« Reply #19 on: January 28, 2011, 05:04:37 pm »
Wascana.. On my '51The interior framework is finished in what looks to be a clear varnish and the wood is very light in color. The interior roof and side panels are stained and varnished in a darker color.  This machine is all origional and the finish both inside and out is as it came from the factory.
Nice work on your Cockshutt tractor...

Offline houlio

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Re: WASCANA'S 48 'WOODY' REBUILD
« Reply #20 on: July 04, 2012, 08:48:43 pm »
Hey there Wascana, obviously I haven't been on the website for a while.  I got a good chuckle when I caught a glimpse of the Fergus 400 in one of your pics.  How is the rebuild going now?

Houlio