Author Topic: OT'S 47-51 ??? Rebuild ??  (Read 81034 times)

Offline Swamp Dawg

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Re: OT'S 47-51 ??? Rebuild ??
« Reply #15 on: August 18, 2009, 02:50:11 pm »
Geez OT your really making things happen.  This is going to be one sweet rebuild!  I think you will be happy with a straight 6 fuel injected. Better fuel economy and maybe a little more power. I was hoping to get one myself, just the way it played out ours came with a carbed motor.  Keep up the good work.

SD

Offline the old trucker

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Re: OT'S 47-51 ??? Rebuild ??
« Reply #16 on: August 18, 2009, 07:16:48 pm »

   Thanks Dawg !! It's happening, but it's going to be slow. I picked up my springs today from the blaster. I just finished putting 4 coats of primer on them & 1 coat of gloss black. I'll put another couple of coats of black on tomorrow. 
   I have to look at a 292 Chev engine on Friday. If it's a good engine I also have a three speed automatic trans lined up to go with it. I would like to get the motor & trans in before doing any woodworking. Right now I am looking at exhaust pipe to make sleeves for the needle bearings. My machinist said the sleeve is mild steel, so I'll get them made from that. Mine have grooves wore in them. I'm still scrounging up parts. I have 3 j5 trailer tracks lined up that have the same grousers. Another fellow has a bunch more. If things keep going like they are, I'm hoping that next winter she'll cuddle up to snow bank or two.
                                                                                                        OT.

 
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Offline gror

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Re: OT'S 47-51 ??? Rebuild ??
« Reply #17 on: August 21, 2009, 09:39:09 am »
Sounds like your on the right track, putting the engine in first would be a lot easier, being a ford man dont know about the 250 ,but auto is the way to go.Sealing the engine compartment from the cabin is also something to look at the extra heat and fumes are not missed.

Offline fisher

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Re: OT'S 47-51 ??? Rebuild ??
« Reply #18 on: August 21, 2009, 11:25:55 am »
   automatics give u a chance when u hit slush on a lake. Just keep easing off the gas and u can stay on top and moving quite a while. A standard won't let u ease off on the throttle enuf without stalling or spinning the tracks when u downshift. Driver with the magic touch can save a lot of jacking,shoveling,swearing etc. Might get the magic touch one of these years.

Offline the old trucker

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Re: OT'S 47-51 ??? Rebuild ??
« Reply #19 on: August 21, 2009, 12:39:48 pm »

   Watta ya mean.... jacking, shoveling. I thought they stayed on top of the snow ????

 
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Offline fisher

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Re: OT'S 47-51 ??? Rebuild ??
« Reply #20 on: August 21, 2009, 10:09:12 pm »
Get stuck in the slush some day

Offline the old trucker

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Re: OT'S 47-51 ??? Rebuild ??
« Reply #21 on: August 22, 2009, 07:12:51 am »

   Every once in awhile I stop & talk to an older gentleman about the old bombardiers, checking out to see if they know for any old machines kicking around. One fellow I was talking to yesterday smiled & laughed & told me about experiences he had. Said they would hit a snow drift & tip over on her side. They would jump out, upright her & go on again. I ended up talking to him for 25 mins. about the stories he told me. It's interesting to know that people still remember about them.
                   
                                                                                                                    OT.
after covering a few acres of prime real estate.

Offline the old trucker

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Re: OT'S 47-51 ??? Rebuild ??
« Reply #22 on: August 22, 2009, 07:37:04 am »

 Would anyone know if the dimensions of the metal machine are similar to the woody ?? I would like to know so I can get an idea as to where to place the ( firewall ), the upright wall that separate the cabin area from the engine area.
  I could use Mike's machine (57 rebuild) as a pattern.
                                                                                              OT. 
after covering a few acres of prime real estate.

Offline oldsledz

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Re: OT'S 47-51 ??? Rebuild ??
« Reply #23 on: August 23, 2009, 01:39:12 pm »
O.T.

It is exactly 50" from the steel member at the end of the plywood deck to the engine side of the firewall.  You should
really come down and look at my rig before the plywood is on. (and I am getting close)  Working on the new wiring harness and heater hoses and after that comes plywood.  You can see how the wood skeleton is cut at an angle.

Frank

Offline the old trucker

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Re: OT'S 47-51 ??? Rebuild ??
« Reply #24 on: August 23, 2009, 06:35:43 pm »

   I would like to go to your place & take pics & measurements before you finish but I am on a budget due to health conditions that makes things a little hard to do. I have pics of most of the angles, I just have to estimate the lengths.
   I think when I have the bigger frame sections built, it should be easier to fill in the remainder.   
Also I have a couple of original panels plus when I pick up the doors they said there are a couple more panels there that I can have also.
                                                                                                              OT.
after covering a few acres of prime real estate.

Offline the old trucker

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Re: OT'S 47-51 ??? Rebuild ??
« Reply #25 on: August 28, 2009, 06:56:13 pm »

  Everything is slow for now. I have the springs painted & ready. I can't be near a welder, so I have to wait to get someone lined up to do it for me. I think I will get the metal for the belly pan, the side pieces for the motor area & the small angle that goes around the diff area next week. I have been rearranging tools in the shed to make some extra space to work. Hoping to be back at it soon.
                                                                                                        OT.
after covering a few acres of prime real estate.

Offline the old trucker

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Re: OT'S 47-51 ??? Rebuild ??
« Reply #26 on: August 30, 2009, 06:37:24 pm »

  Does anyone know what thickness the plywood is that runs along the top of the frame rails ?? It is bolted to the small angle iron framing that is welded to the rails, just ahead of the side plates that go around the engine area . I'm thinking it's 3/4". It looks like the same as what makes up the bench seats.

                                                                                                        OT.   
                                                   
after covering a few acres of prime real estate.

Offline oldsledz

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Re: OT'S 47-51 ??? Rebuild ??
« Reply #27 on: August 30, 2009, 07:08:26 pm »
O.T.

The plywood is 3/4"

Frank

Offline the old trucker

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Re: OT'S 47-51 ??? Rebuild ??
« Reply #28 on: September 06, 2009, 05:23:46 am »
  Thanks oldsledz ! I was out & got the two front doors that originally belonged my bomber. Also I got the left motor door & the wiper motor.
   Both doors will need new skins outside & wood inside. I found it strange that there were 2 wipers attached to the motor.

http://i333.photobucket.com/albums/m366/theoldtrucker/PICT0122.jpg

http://i333.photobucket.com/albums/m366/theoldtrucker/PICT0123.jpg

http://i333.photobucket.com/albums/m366/theoldtrucker/PICT0127.jpg

http://i333.photobucket.com/albums/m366/theoldtrucker/PICT0128.jpg

http://i333.photobucket.com/albums/m366/theoldtrucker/PICT0130.jpg

  I took the motor apart & cleaned up the 60 yrs of rust & dirt that gathered up inside, put her together & fired her up.  IT "WORKS" !!!!  
  There is a long screw shaft that goes to the wiper posts covered with 2 pieces of metal tubing. On the wiper post there is a small gear that turns the shaft back & forth.
  There are 3 wires coming out of the motor. A red & a green wire were hooked up to the motor. That's what I put the power to. However there is a single red wire sticking out on top of the case. Inside the case the green wire looks like it's gone to ground. The 2 red wires ( 1 bottom & 1 top ) are soldered to the same terminal inside. I'm thinking that the single red wire on top is for the "PARK" feature. This wire was not hooked to anything. There was no switch with it, just 2 wires tied in with the light. On the outside of one cover (with round circle) it says; DR #A  
                                                                 PARK  (arrow points to left)
                                                                 12 V 9 59
                                                                 75389 B
                                                                 Patened  

The other cover (square) says;  LUCAS
                                            Made in England
                                       #'s 1  2  3  E
http://i333.photobucket.com/albums/m366/theoldtrucker/PICT0142.jpg

http://i333.photobucket.com/albums/m366/theoldtrucker/PICT0136.jpg

http://i333.photobucket.com/albums/m366/theoldtrucker/PICT0139.jpg

http://i333.photobucket.com/albums/m366/theoldtrucker/PICT0140.jpg

http://i333.photobucket.com/albums/m366/theoldtrucker/PICT0141.jpg

http://i333.photobucket.com/albums/m366/theoldtrucker/PICT0143.jpg

These doors & wiper motor were laid in 3 ft. tall grass for 40 yrs. The right side body panel that has the windows in it was there, but was too rotten to salvage for pattern. Does anyone know anything about the 2 wiper setup ?
                  
                                                                                                  OT. " looking for info 10/4 ?? "  



        
« Last Edit: September 06, 2009, 06:07:42 am by the old trucker »
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Offline the old trucker

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Re: OT'S 47-51 ??? Rebuild ??
« Reply #29 on: September 06, 2009, 06:44:13 am »

  Just looked on the internet & found some info on the wiper motor. I will contact these people to check on the wiring & switch.


Wiring connections to the motor

3. Wheel Boxes
The most popular wheel box size is 32 teeth on the inner drive wheel and the ideal length of shaft from the inner face to the end of the splines is 2.5 inches. This allows for the thickness of material on fibreglass cars as the first spacer can be cut down in size allowing for varying thicknesses through the bulkhead where the wheel boxes fit. There is also a 40-tooth wheel box which will reduce the amount of wiper arm travel.
If the car has a split screen then it is quite easy to fit what was called the clapped hands system. This is by turning one of the wheel boxes through 180 degrees.


5. Drive or "Bundy"Tubing Sets
It is far better to use the recommended wiper tubing from Lucas than to use copper tube as this can be noisy and wears very quickly on any bends. Wear of the drive tube causes friction that can lead to the motor burning out.

Bundy tube sets can be made up providing you give the supplier 2 dimensions. The first is the distance from the motor to the centre of the first wheel box hole, and the second the distance between the wheel box hole centres through the bulkhead. Obviously if there is a 3 wiper system then there is another dimension needed. Try to avoid sharp bends in the tubing, If you have to bend the bundy tube, an easy way to form the shape is to insert the drive rack into the tube before bending. This will keep the tube the correct diameter on any of the bends (very much like a plumber bends copper piping by inserting the spring). Always grease the rack liberally before inserting into the bundy tube.

Drive Tube Dimensions


6. Switch
It is important that you use a correct wiper 2-speed switch. The reason for this is that when the switch is in the off position with the ignition switched on there is one connection which becomes live. This operates the parking position. If you use a non-live switch then the wipers would stop whenever the switch was switched off.

LUCAS WIPER SWITCH Part No. 35927

Terminal Connections
4. 1st speed red/green light
8. Park brown/light green (linked to no.4 when switch is on off position)
6. Ignition live green
2. 2nd Speed blue/light green

The park position can be changed by reading the Lucas information leaflet. If purchasing a second hand motor make sure there are 3 wires going into the motor body. This is the way to tell if the motor is 2-speed, 1 speed only has 2 wires.
All of the above components and full assemblies cut to your cars specifications can be purchased from Stafford Vehicle Components.




Bundy tube sets can be made up providing you give the supplier 2 dimensions. The first is the distance from the motor to the centre of the first wheel box hole, and the second the distance between the wheel box hole centres through the bulkhead. Obviously if there is a 3 wiper system then there is another dimension needed. Try to avoid sharp bends in the tubing, If you have to bend the bundy tube, an easy way to form the shape is to insert the drive rack into the tube before bending. This will keep the tube the correct diameter on any of the bends (very much like a plumber bends copper piping by inserting the spring). Always grease the rack liberally before inserting into the bundy tube.

Drive Tube Dimensions


6. Switch
It is important that you use a correct wiper 2-speed switch. The reason for this is that when the switch is in the off position with the ignition switched on there is one connection which becomes live. This operates the parking position. If you use a non-live switch then the wipers would stop whenever the switch was switched off.

LUCAS WIPER SWITCH Part No. 35927

Terminal Connections
4. 1st speed red/green light
8. Park brown/light green (linked to no.4 when switch is on off position)
6. Ignition live green
2. 2nd Speed blue/light green

The park position can be changed by reading the Lucas information leaflet. If purchasing a second hand motor make sure there are 3 wires going into the motor body. This is the way to tell if the motor is 2-speed, 1 speed only has 2 wires.

All of the above components and full assemblies cut to your cars specifications can be purchased from Stafford Vehicle Components.
  I can't copy the pic portion of it, but it looks identical to mine.





 
after covering a few acres of prime real estate.